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When curating a ranking of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate well-known high-end establishments. Yet, situated prominently among these food titans is a simple salonu situated in a distant corner of north London.

A Unexpected Honour

This small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. This accolade has made the family completely shocked.

“I am utterly astonished,” states a owner’s son, referring to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their humble place achieving such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This compact space, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its former feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the food, and this restaurant more than succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a succulent texture.

It is then tossed into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can start at many times that figure.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not work at elite establishments. “I am very proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo beyond its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this gastronomic triumph.